Category: On the Job

Recently I prepared a big family style buffet with an abundance of fresh flavor for a happy family from Austin, Texas. For two hours, they enjoyed all the bounty the American Mediterranean has to offer. My wife and I honeymooned in Greece, and I’ll never forget the dry desert breeze against the tempestuous ocean. I felt at home in Greece because its weather was very much like our own local deserts. Where growing up, my family vacationed often. So, I often refer to San Diego as the American Mediterranean because our irrigated desert has an almost continuous dry breeze that can put you in vacation mode faster than you can say Margarita.

Menu

Butter browned brussels with rhubarb and sweet onion
Pickled Guaco Taco
Duck breast wrapped cotton candy grape with chile arbol and cinnamon    

Grilled prime tri-tip
Seared yellowtail with grilled shrimp and soy dipping sauce 
Artichoke mashed potatoes
Blackened chile corn and fresh fava beans
Grilled purple cauliflower and peeled broccolini stems
Marinated kale and celery root salad with roasted butternut brunoise and pepitas
Tomato salad with pickled cucumber, jicama and radish
Roasted plum over white velvet cream draped butter cake

This menu is another example of the seasonal styling I articulate to present original combinations and fresh flavors that create a memorable evening. It’s a lot of work to continually come up with new and inventive combinations that surprise my clients. Albeit work that I enjoy. but it certainly takes a lot of energy and the right amount of stress. to get everything balanced and properly timed out.

A family gathering for three separate groups descended on La Jolla last week. All had different requests and different situations, but all three had at least one great night.

Work makes me happy because I like taking care of people. Helping people stay relaxed and in vacation mode means a job well done. When I’m on vacation, I don’t like things that take me out of vacation mode. Traffic, poor customer service and injuries can thwart a good experience. Having a chef cook dinner while you spend time with your kids and grandkids is what vacation is about. Use that 3-4 hours before dinner to relax to the fullest. Take the time to breathe and be present with those closest to you. Instead of the alternative, which is usually getting gussied up and running out the door to make a reservation. Not to mention traffic, waiting to be seated, dealing with conversations coming from the left and right in a loud space, then waiting for the bill so you can finally leave and drive home. It’s all a lot easier to pull up a chair, pour yourself a glass of wine and let me have your kitchen for an evening. Especially for a multi-generational family gathering.

What menus are chosen is always an exhibition of creativity, thoughtfulness and need. Sometimes the dietary restrictions and requests of the group. steer the direction of the menu. and my workload. Regardless of their needs, it’s always a pleasure to get them met. After all, the job of a personal chef is to meet the needs of the client. That usually forces me down culinary roads I might not have wandered into. But that direction forces wonderful creativity.

For most around the county, Jamul is a bit of a trek. Being in East San Diego myself, keeps me close to a burgeoning San Diego market. Great for people looking toward more affordable housing, and a bit of separation in an ever-growing city. My children’s school was recently granted farmland in Jamul to do with as we please. We are excited about the possibility of creating our own ongoing CSA for our school families. But right now we’re only getting going with about 200 pumpkins. Pumpkins are pretty easy and will produce fun results by mid October. Hopefully a productive simple crop will wet our appetites for something more complicated.

East San Diego is hot, but it’s a dry heat and usually accompanied by a breeze. The same weekend I was planting pumpkins. I also had a small family dinner party at a really amazing air bnb deep in Jamul, (pictured above). Twas a casual party with a loving family. A perfect last job before my July 4th vacation to Pismo beach. Not to get sidetracked with Pismo, but man, that was a great trip. It felt like a Mexico beach vacation. Fresh tamales, fireworks, amazing Mexican music, friendly families and great weather. Those points were all just a backdrop to a lovely week.

The request was an Italian night menu. Once again I found myself in a lovely La Jolla rental property, cooking for a vacationing family. Multi generational dinners are my favorite and this family was no exception. I cooked for them twice during the week and they requested Mexican and Italian. These pictures from Italian night show my version of an Italian wedge salad. Mixed with the comfort of Tuscan stew and the vibrant crunch of fresh giardiniera. As part of an appetizer, we had some opal basil flowers. Adding the basil flavor on a mini roasted caprese bite.

Renting a nice place along the coast is great. It allows you to be on vacation and not have to leave your area for entertainment. Bringing me in to handle dinner makes things even better. You get a night of memorably delicious food without the rigmarole of taking a group out to dinner. I serve all areas of the county with fresh, vibrant farmers market based food. Like the tomatoes to the right. Hollowed out baby tomatoes roasted with mozzarella and stuffed with garlic and peppered walnuts. Then garnished with basil flowers for a soft tough on a rich appetizer.

With all confidence…Chef Joshua knows jack, about Jackfruit. Knowing about jackfruit is one thing. Tackling the tropical, spiky beast is another feat in itself. But it is truly amazing.

After years of seeing it at 99 Ranch, and doing my best to avoid it. I was finally beaten down by the vegetarian onslaught it’s been living at the markets. Noticed of late, and quite often, as a meat alternative for Vegans at Spouts. Recently the local market started carrying the fresh, skin-on behemoths. Purchasing one took about two weeks of walking past it and trying not to make eye contact. Then a random youtube video video scrolling across Facebook brought it all home.

Breakdown

Finally breaking down and buying one took some courage. Although it was thought to be ripe; (which means a lot of plump give), It was not. After cutting into it and comparing what was seen on the video, it seemed a bit dry to the touch. It’s petal like flesh did not easily separate like in the video either. However, this particular Jackfruit was ripe enough to be tasty. Maybe not ripe enough to satisfy long time eaters of the fruit, but still great. Totally tropical, pungent and complex, my kids and loved it. Pairing it with bananas was a new kind of magic and it was enjoyed in smoothies and Ice creams as well.

Next Time with My Tropical Jackfruit…

Yes, there will be a next time. We didn’t scratch the surface of what can be done with it as a non dessert food. It will be utilized on savory dishes like I see all the vegan recipes for. Maybe some Jackfruit fried rice? Definitely could have used it for this party.

As American as apple pie is a phrase that needs some tweaking. As good as apple pie is, it doesn’t seem very American. A truly American food can’t be German/Belgian in origin. It also needs to have stood the test of time in the American kitchen. Meaning, not many people are baking apple pie anymore.

But there is a confection whose popularity has stayed consistent, loved and quizzically un-celebrated. It has quietly usurped all food stuffs to become Americas most iconic snack treat. The humble…yet always enjoyed…Banana Bread. More of a cake then a bread, even the title is American as we ignore dictatorial definitions to call it what we damn well please. Regardless of texture, it’s never called banana cake. Sure, quick breads are a real thing, I get it. But if you line up 10 banana ‘breads” and ask 10 kids if it’s cake or bread. it’ll be a landslide.

There is not a more common confection made in the American kitchen

Banana bread is a recipe every family has, and every family thinks theirs is best. Not only does every family make it…but everyone likes it. When was the last time you made banana bread and had to throw some away? Also, in more support of it’s unique Americanism are bananas themselves. A truly American food because we genetically changed to meet our specifications for shipping and consumption. We then set up South American plantations to grow them, just to import back home. Then we flooded the country with ’em so they were everywhere and inexpensive. At some point, most families have bananas going bad on the counter. Thus, the revolving door of browned over bananas being thrown into butter, sugar, flour, leavening and whatever else your crazy family puts in THEIR recipe.

So this July 4th, if what to bring to the BBQ is a question…check your freezer. Maybe there’s a Ziploc of old forgotten bananas Waiting to be resurrected into the American glory they were destined to be.

I had a client request chicken and waffles for her husbands birthday party. It went well…

Occasionally I get to switch up my farm to table approach with specific client requests that are always a fun, welcome challenge. This evening I served the chicken and waffle with my classic pairing of fall spiced butter, fresh hot sauce and Log Cabin syrup. This was perched on an almond celery root coleslaw that brought everything together and provided freshness within the rich. I went with a Korean style fried chicken because I was curious to see how it went with the other southern style items. My opinion is that is was a sideways move, not better or worse. While the crust was not craggy, it was shatteringly crisp and retained lusciously juicy, tender meat. It was the type of plate that takes your breath away, then you have to take a moment to collect yourself.

Years ago I wanted to put my spin on chicken and waffles, so I paired it with a fall spice butter, fresh made, vinegar heavy hot sauce and store bought syrup. I went with the store bought stuff for a couple reasons. The buttery richness and childhood harkening flavor was more complex than the real stuff. The real stuff is great and quite healthy…as sugar goes. But the corn syrup love presented by the good people at Conagra just hits different.

Another season of fun bachelor and bachelorette parties are in full swing and life is good. These are usually fun groups that have alot on the schedule, but still want to eat well and enjoy their rental.

Some groups have plans to go dancing, some enjoy their pool/jacuzzi while relaxing with cocktails. Others play on the beach or join me in the kitchen to pick my brain; just examples of how nice it is to enjoy your friends without the rigmarole of going out. Which with a group, can be alot: Travel and traffic, dressing up (lame if you’re in pool mode), waiting for your table or check, talking over the crowd, sitting across the table from the part of the group with the fun conversation. You know how it can be.

Or…I show up early and swirl around the kitchen for a few hours. Then present you with righteous appetizers and an expansive California fresh dinner and dessert. How do you want to Bachelorette?

One major concern for bachelorette parties are dietary restraints. There’s usually a gluten free or vegetarian in the mix, possibly a no dairy or pescatarian. It’s important to make sure those folks don’t feel left out, and to be accommodating to the group.

Recently, I went down the street to a local business. Fred’s Urban Farm, specializing in micro greens, sprouts, eggs and citrus. My wife and I have been there a handful of times but this time I wanted to pick up some items for a party. I was happily talked into some sunflower sprouts for cute deliciousness and broccoli spouts for superfood health.

Apparently broccoli and it’s babies are chocked full of a cancer fighting phytochemical known as Sulphoraphane, an anti cancer fighting phytochemical that will keep me healthy and robust. Cool, sounds good to me…and they ended up being quite tasty. Which was a surprise because I don’t really enjoy most sprouts.
Researching sulphoraphane I came across The Carnivore Diet. I’m not a fan of the word diet or the lifestyle, but different ways of eating always intrigue me. I googled around a bit and found that some people have found health happiness with the diet, which is what it’s all about.

Greens Got Me Thinking of Diets

Reminds me of Terry. Terry was the oposite of Fred’s Urban Farm.

We went on a family reunion in 2015 to Montana where I enjoyed the company of the patriarchs nephew, he was about 75 I think. Terry had been eating what I didn’t realize was a burgeoning diet fad that may have some points of note to it. Terry would tell me (in his gravelly old voice), “I eat meat, cheese and eggs. Anything from the ground, ‘ll kill ya.”

Interesting stuff. I’ve read before about toxicity in seeds and such, but the carnivore diet seems a little intense. Maybe not…but I have a hard time with food extremes. I’m a firm believer in balance and finding happiness in the grey, so eating like it’s a black and white world doesn’t jive with me. Especially when our teeth are more veggie crusher then meat ripper. That being said, whatever method we choose to limit easy carbs is a win.

What’s your goal when you eat a salad? Why are you eating it? Obligation, pleasure…somewhere in the middle? Eating salad for life means enjoying it for health, the rest of your life.

Love The Greens

For me…I enjoy cool fresh crunch and the feeling of consuming health. I’ve always had a confidence with salads and see them as an opportunity to enjoy food, not put up with it. It can be simple or complex, but it needs to be thought about or cared for as much as the roast in the oven.

If you can make a well seasoned dressing, then all you need is some stuff in a bowl.  Lettuce, canned beans, nuts, cheese, herbs.  Thinly sliced or shredded raw veggies like roots, cabbage or peppers.  Fresh or dried fruits are great as is diced or julienned apple. Rice! Rice is rad in salad.

There are no rules for a good salad, but there are some things to keep in mind for success. Some things need more dressing and time then others. For example. Most salads are best when everything is tossed just before service, like Caesar. Some salads need time, like kale.     

Kale salad is not hard but it has a few rules and is a great example of needing to structurally break down. Confidently work the kale with dressing. Oil, acid and salt break down tough greens but it has to be worked in. You will always want some sweetness with any bitter green; kale, arugula, endive all need a little sweetness. I also like to add a little garlic in with kale. Even if you’re thinking sweet, those flavors are needed balance.

Kale Salad:
2 bunches kale, washed and large ribs torn away
1 clove garlic, minced
1T honey
salt and pepper
4T lemon juice
2T virgin olive oil
1/3c slivered almonds, toasted
½ small red onion, thinly sliced
1 fuji apple, peeled and diced small
¼c raisins, dries cranberries or cherries
½c shaved parmesan, for garnish

Tear up the kale and toss with garlic lemon, salt and pepper, olive oil and honey. Massage a couple minutes then let sit for a bit. Work again until soft, then toss in the remaining ingredients, season to taste and garnish with parmesan.

Be Interesting…

Celery root and carrots are similar: Peel and julienne; toss with a little salt, oil and acid (lemon juice). Let sit and toss again, the texture should be noodley. Keep these macerating items separate until go time, or they’ll bleed too much liquid, which should be drained. Add this to the kale salad for lovely results.

Think about each ingredient and bite. Think of how the end product will come together in your mouth. Let’s say broccoli salad…are you going to blanch the broccoli? If yes; don’t over cook it and give it time to drip dry afterwards. If not, it’s raw state needs to have a lot of rich dressing and it’ll need to be chopped up but not obliterated. Both of these questions for broccoli salad are important because the decision and execution of either step, sets the stage for what’s next. And what’s next is texture and dressing. Some toasted nuts, raisins and diced celery cover texture. Dressing could be grapeseed oil, lemon juice, lime juice, red wine vinegar, honey, salt and pepper and chives. Sneaking in more health at the end is nice as long as is stays crunchy, a little endive or esocarole works.  

See…it’s easy.