Category: On the Job

Spring is beautiful.  I realize this is not a new or brilliant observation. But your first outside, late spring dinner of the season is a marker of warm times to come.

Every turn of the season is exciting for chefs.  Enjoying food as the seasons guide you is a satisfying feeling and a healthy way to eat.  Comfortingly, it limits your options in a very natural way.  Recently we had family over for a spring dinner.  One of those nights where everything comes together. That always perfect combination of great food and great company. With a setting that doesn’t distract from either.

The Menu

All the veggies were obtained at the Rancho San Diego Farmers Market.

Radishes/Truffle butter/Brunoise pear/Himalayan salt/Chives

Delicious lobster bisque

Salad- Baby turnips/Grilled butternut squash/Peeled and blanched celery/Shaved parmesan/Gremolata-chimichurri

Roasted lamb shoulder with lamb gravy/Spaetzle and herbs/Chile garlic broccolini

Homemade caramel vanilla ice cream/Melt in your mouth apples/Raw Honey Crisp apple

This was a personal party at my home with family and none blood family that was really beautiful. I had bought two lamb roasts for the party. The size of the roast was just barely two small for the group. So, I picked up a second. It was interesting that the one I brought home frozen, cooked up much less gamey than the thawed one. The market goes through a lot of lamb, so I don’t believe it was old.

Cake pops are one of those hilarious and historical food moments. This kind of invention that makes people awesome.  If anything, it’s a great kid project.

Because you KNOW, these were invented after a cake baking disaster.  That “Oh shit” moment in the kitchen.  We’ve all had it, no need to be ashamed.  We’ve all burned a grilled cheese before.  But holding it together enough to triumph over adversity and present something rad from disaster?  Well that’s a beautiful moment right there.  These cake pops are great fun with the kiddos and sure to provide that perfect little sugar rush that turns angels to demons…have fun!!!

Recently I did a kids cooking class with this recipe.  The kids all had a great time and the recipe is a snap.

Cake Pops

Chocolate Cake, prepared (I used ½ of a 9×13 devils food box cake)
Chocolate Frosting (amount depends on moistness of cake. I used two big spoonfuls.)
2 boxes Premium white chocolate ( I used Baker’s brand)
cake pop sticks
sprinkles

1. Add already cooked and cooled cake to a large bowl.
2. Crumble until it resembles fine crumbs.
3. Add in frosting a little bit at a time until cake is moist and can hold a ball shape, yet still slightly crumbly.
4. Use your hands to incorporate the frosting into the cake crumbs.
5. Use a mini ice cream scoop and scoop out two balls of cake mixture.
6. Roll the mixture into a tight ball and place on a plate.
7. Repeat until all the cake mixture has been rolled into balls.
8. Melt 2-4 ounces of white chocolate in the microwave.
9. Dip the tip of the cake pop sticks into the white chocolate and insert into the cake balls about half-way.
10. Freeze for about 20 minutes.
11. Meanwhile prepare all of your decorating supplies.
12. Melt the remaining chocolate in a large cup. Make sure you have enough chocolate to completely submerge the cake ball.
13. Remove cake balls from freezer.
14. Dip cake balls carefully into the chocolate until covered.
15. Let the excess chocolate drip off. Swirl and tap gently if needed.
16. Add the sprinkles while the chocolate is still wet. It will harden quickly.
17. Stick the decorated cake pop into a Styrofoam block to finish setting.
18. Place into the freezer to speed up setting time.
19. Cover with a clear treat bag & ribbon for gift giving, if desired.
20. Store in a single layer, in an airtight container.
Enjoy!

The wine dinner awesomeness that happened last month was everything good about life.

As stated in the past I love wine pairing dinners.  Making food with nuances that help guide a wine experience is simply theater.  Think about it.  You have a beautiful and comfortable atmosphere with people you enjoy.  You drink quality wine and recognize it’s vibrant life and its layers of complexity.  Then, maybe you get a little hungry…and everything changes.  Food arrives that speaks to the wine…challenges the wine.  Every bite helps coax a new identity from the wine.  At least that’s the goal :-|

I think everything went splendid a couple months ago.  We started with hors d’oeuvres that highlighted seasonal veggies and fruits, then onto this menu.

Lambrusco di Sorbara Secco
Canellini beans/ arugula pesto/chicken cracklins’/Himalayan salt/Parmigiano Reggiano

La Crema Pinot Noir
Sarsaparilla braised pork shoulder/caramelized fennel and onion/pâte brisée

Sebastiani Pinot Noir
Prime New York strip/Asian spiced sweet potato fries/Worcestershire black vinegar aioli

Unknown Port—but requested raspberries/chocolate/cream cheese
Cheesecake/raspberry crust/dark chocolate sauce

Keep in mind that this 3 hor d’oeurve, 4 course, wine awesomeness dinner was for 14 people.  The dishes were clean, as was the kitchen by the end of dessert.  Other than glassware, you don’t have to do anything in the kitchen during a great party. 

 

So what are the rules here really?  Some want it from the box, some need it baked, some need to have actual macaroni and some want lobster and truffles.  I’m somewhere in the middle.  I want rich, full flavor with appropriate texture and mouth feel.  That’s not to say I’m above the box…I  appreciate it for what it is.  A $1.00 meal that can cure a craving for the taste of yore and fill a belly. Mac ‘n cheese is always a win.

Recently I cooked a “favorites” party and one of the requests was Mac ‘n Cheese.  As per the theme, I made an upscale version that contains all the necessary ingredients to induce moans and pull eyeballs up into the sockets.  Just so you know; I don’t ever bake Mac ‘n Cheese.  To me it is made in one pot, over the stove.  Baking it only accomplishes a browned crust effect, which is great and all.  But garnishing with souped up bread crumbs scratches the same itch with alot less effort.

I’ve posted some recipes below. The fatty McSinful version I did for the party, along with a classic “old school” version that Good Eats did a wonderful job with.  The party version is a strain on the pocketbook as well as the heart, so keep it for special occasions and feel free to switch up some things if you don’t have an ingredient.  Make whatever version you like but remember,  texture will be your number one priority so don’t over heat it when stirring in the cheese.

My Lobster Mac ‘n Cheese

½ tsp fresh, course ground black pepper
3T butter
1T minced parsley
4T panko or sourdough breadcrumbs
½lb orecchiette
salt
3T butter
1½c heavy whipping cream or evaporated milk
2 eggs, beaten
10oz shredded gruyere
1tsp sherry vinegar
½ tsp dijon mustard
1-2 lobster tails, shucked and cut in chunks
4oz mascarpone
black truffles or truffle oil

Heat a pan over medium high until hot. Add the pepper to toast until browned and fragrant. Add the butter, parsley and panko with a small pinch of salt. Stir and toast over medium heat until crispy, then remove to a bowl to cool.
Cook pasta to al dente with salted water, and reserve some pasta water when you drain. Return pasta to the pot and stir in the butter. Whisk together the cream and next 4 ingredients. Stir into the noodles with the lobster and cook over low heat until the sauce thickens, about 3 minutes, (If more liquid is needed, use the hot pasta water). Adjust seasoning and stir in the mascarpone. Plate, and shave truffles over the top (or drizzle with the oil) and sprinkle with the toasted breadcrumbs.

We ate the leftovers as breakfast with a fried egg a couple days later, It was a ridiculous.

Good Eats Classic Mac ‘n Cheese

½ lb elbow macaroni pasta
4T butter
2 organic free range eggs
12 oz. evaporated milk
½ tsp southern hot sauce
1 tsp kosher salt
Fresh black pepper
3/4 tsp dry mustard
10 oz. sharp cheddar cheese, shredded

In a large pot of boiling, salted water, cook the pasta to al dente and drain. Return the pasta to the hot pot over low heat and melt in the butter: stir to coat.
Whisk together the eggs, milk, hot sauce, salt, pepper, and mustard. Stir into the pasta with the cheese. Over low heat continue to stir for 3 minutes or until creamy.

Eating salad should be done on any day ending in day; but Sunday salad just sounded right.

I’m not not going to extol the nutritional benefits of eating salad.  If you don’t think eating vegetables as often as possible is a healthy way to live, then I got nothin’ for ya.  But I do know it’s hard sometimes. We all crave the easy stuff when we’re tired and hungry.  Like all good cooking, there’s a little effort needed to make something wonderful, and as always, pre-planning will smooth out the process.  Here are three salad dressing recipes.  The vinaigrette will be your workhorse, and making a cup or two at time will make future salads lickety split.

Vinaigrette:

1/4c red wine vinegar

1/2c extra virgin olive oil

1/2tsp dijon mustard *optional

1tsp honey (optional)

1/2tsp kosher salt

1/4tsp fresh ground black pepper

Place everything in a jar and shake. Use as needed.

*Notes–You can use any acid, any oil, any mustard, any sweetener, any salt and any pepper you want. A couple shots of Worcestershire are great too. Feel free to add minced garlic, or shallot, fresh or dried herbs or a small pinch of nutmeg, cinnamon or allspice. Don’t have a jar? Use a blender, food processor or a bowl and whisk. Or…toss everything into the salad except the oil. Once everything is in, toss in the oil.

Caesar:

1 clove garlic

2tsp Thai fish sauce or 1 anchovy filet

2T fresh lemon juice

1/16tsp fresh black pepper

1/4 tsp kosher salt

1 egg yolk

2T finely grated parmigiano reggiano

2-3tsp mayonnaise

2T extra virgin olive oil

1/2c neutral oil, (avocado or grapeseed)

Peel and cut garlic in half. Puree in a blender with 2T of the olive oil and everything else. With the machine running, pour in the remaining olive oil. Season to taste and add more oil if too thin.

*Notes–No blender? Use a food processor or bowl and whisk. If bowl and whisk is your method; whisk everything together sans the oil. Start whisking in the oil in a very thin stream or just a small splash at a time (1tsp). Avocado oil is easily replaceable for the olive. You must use fresh garlic, fresh lemon juice and the best parmesan you can afford or procure. The mayo helps emulsify and adds creaminess.

Ranch:

2T fresh lime juice

1c sour cream

1/2c mayonnaise

1/3c milk

1tsp minced fresh parsley or 1/2tsp dried

1tsp grated onion or minced chives

1/2tsp minced garlic

1/2tsp salt

1/4tsp fresh black pepper

Whisk everything and let sit 15 minutes

*Notes–Add milk for desired texture and feel free to use cream, half ‘n half, or buttermilk. The higher fat the richer the flavor. Go easy on the raw onion and garlic, their intensity will build over time.

Salad making tutorial up next :-)

You know what I like about the holidays? Everything. Even some of the consumerism, which is bonkers. It’s overall craziness is part of the fun. because it’s fun to be crazy sometimes.

Loving or at least liking the holidays can take some practice.  At times it’s draining with all the pressures of shopping and not having enough time for anything.  Don’t get me started on people being F’ing nuts in the parking lots and on the roads.  But what if there were no holiday season?  What the hell would we do to take up our time in these early winter months?  The only thing that pulls us out of the house during these colder months tends to have something to do with the holidays.  Thank goodness it’s automatically on all our calendars.  Otherwise, the scheduling conflicts to get everyone together would deem it impossible.

Holiday food

These are also the food focused holidays where rationality and good decisions give way to gluttony.  Which is great timing right before the new year; you get a clean slate, which is just great.   There was actually a study done at Harvard a few years ago that proved all caloric intake between Thanksgiving and New Years gets wiped away like it never happened on January 2nd.  It’s true…I would never make something like that up.

So, with all the food, there are usually leftovers.  Leftovers are great in almost any form and are quite a constant in this house.  For post Thanksgiving breakfast, there was enough to make some ridiculously good potato turkey cakes with gravy and a fried egg.  Here is the recipe:

Turkey Potato Cakes                                           

1 ¼c chopped turkey
2T butter or olive oil
2c mashed potatoes
1 egg
2T flour
2T butter and 2T olive oil
½c gravy
4 fried eggs

Heat a sauté pan over medium high heat until hot. Add the turkey and 2T butter or olive oil. Cook until turkey is crispy. Scrape into a bowl and stir in the potatoes, egg and flour. Form 6-8 pancakes and fry until brown on both sides with the butter and olive oil. (Adding oil to your butter when it cooks helps the milk solids not burn). Pre-heat the oven to 350 before you start just in case you want to bake the pancakes for a few minutes to finish them off.  Serve with gravy and a fried egg for extra pleasure.

By the way, if you’re hosting a holiday dinner and you tend to flip out, cool…flip out.  Just don’t flip out on the day of.  Light some candles, dim the lights, get everyone a drink and make sure to cook up some kick ass gravy.  The rest is up to the spirit of the season.  Here is a gravy recipe that will melt minds and souls.

Gravy

turkey neck, giblets and heart…no liver
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 onion, peeled and quartered
2 ribs celery, chopped
2qt water.
1 bay leaf
2c sliced shallots
10 cloves garlic sliced
4T flour
1c brandy *optional
1T chopped thyme
1T chopped parsley
1/4-1/2c unsalted butter, diced

After the turkey is in the oven, combine the first 6 ingredients in a large pot. Bring it to a boil then turn down to a low simmer for 2 hours, skimming any foam as it rises. Strain the broth and chop the giblets and heart. You should be left with 4-5c of broth.

After the turkey is done, remove it from the roasting pan and drain all but 3T of fat from the turkey roasting pan. Add the shallots to caramelize with a pinch of salt and some fresh pepper. Once browned add the garlic to sweat and cook through. Add the flour and stir about a minute, then deglaze with the brandy. Stir another minute and whisk in the broth one cup at a time. Add the herbs and let simmer for 10 minutes whisking a bit every other minute. Turn off heat and vigorously whisk in the butter. Taste for seasoning and strain everything off.

My 30th

I had a wonderful and memorable 30th birthday. My wife and I were on our way up to Washington, but we detoured into Portland to visit family. With high hopes of a debaucherous evening, we started our night off at a Portland classic, Hubers. We were taken there because I asked the cousin to “take me somewhere Portland.” I also wanted to see what Portland had to offer outside of the delicious tap water. Which by the way, happens to be well water, touched by the hand of our god almighty.

Enlightening Libation

Known for their robust turkey dinner. We did not go to Hubers for the turkey dinner, we went for Spanish Coffees. Spanish Coffee is a coffee libation made with elegant showmanship, and a rum punch to the face. The only reason for it to be deemed “Spanish” is the south American roots of Kaluha. It should be called “Get a Cab Coffee”, cause after it, you ain’t drivin’ nowhere.

This has been a favorite cocktail of mine since first taste and I highly recommend you make it at home. It takes some care and practice, but I like to mix a big batch in a big metal bowl. Takes the stress out of it. Stress because of a flaming glass, that if not properly managed will crack and go terribly wrong. Oh…did I mention this drink gets lit on fire?

 Spanish Coffee

lime wedge
sugar
1tsp triple sec
3/4-1oz Bacardi 151
1½-2oz Kahlua
4oz fresh coffee
1-2oz lightly whipped cream
dash nutmeg

Lime the rim of the glass and dip into sugar to coat. Add the triple sec and rum and light on fire. Swirl constantly for 20 seconds or so and add the Kahlua while still swirling. Swirl another 20 seconds and hit it with coffee to douse the flames. Lightly spoon over the cream to float and garnish with nutmeg. Over ice = awesome milkshake.

Well…it should be at least. Fish is good if you follow two simple rules. If you follow them, you will in.

Make it good

Step One:  Procure fresh product.  The smell should be like the ocean…not dead fish.  Find a good market, and be a good customer like I am, for Blue Water in San Diego. Their stuff is top notch

Step two:  Don’t over cook it!  You paid sweet moolah for that, now don’t kill it. Broiling is a wonderful and easy way to cook fish if you don’t need a crust. It’s not only quick, but it’s quick clean up as well, and won’t stick to the pan.                                              

Here’s a recipe

6 fresh fish fillets
4T Sambal Olek
4T honey
1tsp cornstarch
2tsp water
1tsp salt

Preheat broiler on high and position oven rack to the top. Whisk together the water and cornstarch, then whisk in remaining ingredients. Place the fish on an oiled sheet pan and top with the glaze. Broil until the fish is cooked and the glaze is browned, 5-7 minutes. If glaze begins to burn, turn off broiler and let sit in the hot oven for a couple minutes.

This recipe has a glaze, but you can do anything.  Season with salt and pepper, a little butter or olive oil and your good.  Want to throw on some spice or herb?  DO IT…do it.

Also; don’t feel the pressure to cook your fish.  If you’re paying $20-$30lb for fresh Ahi, Albacore or Salmon, just slice it up and make a dipping sauce.

Here’s a recipe:

1/2c soy sauce
1/4c rice vinegar
2T sugar
1T of anything (ginger, chile, green onion, sesame seeds, garlic, lemon grass, herbs, toasted coriander…whatever)

Whisk and let sit a few minutes to marry flavors and dissolve the sugar.

I had to give fish some love. Steak was obviously a layup.

Making fresh pasta is alot like making fresh bread.  It feels good man…feels good.  Eating it feels good and making it feels great.  Two ingredients, a little kneading and roll it out.  The machine is a fun option if you want something more refined then grandma’s noodles.  You know what I mean; those short, thick, chicken soup noodles that took up the entire kitchen table every other Sunday.

4 eggs and about 3 1/2 cups of flour is all ya need.  Don’t over think it, just do it; if you fail, you’ll only fail once because you’ll learn from your mistakes and you’ll learn “feel”.  I like using the table-top “well method” as opposed to a standing mixer or food processor.  Yes it’s more physical labor and takes longer, but as I said before; “feels good man.” Make a well/volcano with the flour and crack the eggs into the center.  Scramble ’em with a fork and start scraping the inside base of the flour into the eggs.  Bring it all together and don’t break your levee while the eggs are still runny.

–You can’t really over knead the dough.  If you can knead for 10 minutes then great, but you really only knead long enough that the dough is a homogeneous ball that is not sticky, tough or crumbly.  Knead by pulling the dough toward you and over itself; then push it away and into itself with the heel of your hand.  Use your body weight not your arms.  After you are done or bored, wrap it tight in plastic and let is rest for 30 minutes to an hour before rolling.

–Resting is important so don’t skip it.  Pour a glass of wine and get the sauce components ready.

–If the 4 eggs and 3 1/2 cups flour was too dry, add an egg yolk or a tablespoon of olive oil next time.  Too wet…add a little more flour.  If at any time the dough is sticky when your working with it, add a little flour.  If you have a scale, a more appropriate recipe is about 100g flour per large or extra large egg.

–I don’t salt my dough just the pasta water.  Enough to taste like sea water.

I hadn’t had cow tongue in 15 years; last time I had it I remember it being dry and minerally, neither of which I’m good with.  I’ve been telling myself to make it for years now but just never got around to it.  Had a coworker make it a few months ago which made me realize I was past due to get after this dish.

Not using any recipe; I just treated it like a big hunk of lean meat that needed to cook a long time,  alla something you’d throw in the crockpot, but not as hot.

Surprise pleasure

How much I enjoyed this ugly nasty thing was heart warming.  It was flavorful, tender and moist…and that was just the licker.  The base of the tongue where it attaches to the activating muscles and jaw; oh man…best food surprise in a loooong time.  Mouth coating collagen love, like the best short rib you’ve ever had or imagined.

Texture of the cow tongue itself I liken to really good beef tenderloin…but unfortunately, I was in the minority.  The image and thought of it was just too much for some to overcome. It was however, completely demolished when I breaded and fried it. lol.

Initially, it was poached in a court bouillon for about 8 hrs.  After it cooled a bit, the outer skin came off easily with no skill required.  I sliced it about 1/4-1/8 inch thick and tossed it into some Moroccan sauce. We ate it as tacos because, …San Diego. Tacos are always the answer.